Saving The Planet, With Virtual Flea Markets

As a young adult who is keen to keep up with the latest trends, I often find myself scrolling through the pages of student friendly fashion sites. Cheap and cheerful would describe my budget, with both me and my peers priding ourselves in bargain purchases. We have our future lives to save for, but we still want to look good on the road there!

However, this forward thinking mindset may be flawed, if those businesses we choose to purchase from, fail to respect the planet we call home. Fast fashion has become an integral part of consumer culture, but what are the real life implications of the industry? This blog will discuss the effects of the industry on our environment and community, whilst exploring the shift to thrift and how clothing rental could be a solution to our Climate Crisis woes.

Effects of Fast Fashion on the Environment 

Fast fashion is a term used to define brands who recreate and mass produce designer looks, for a fraction of the price. With the current Instagram swipe-up culture, it’s clear to see the appeal of such small price tags. Gen Z are being bombarded with a relentless pursuit to accumulate more and more, with social media influencers promoting the latest styles daily, in fun and quirky formats. Whether content of such nature provides inspiration or simply entertainment, this consumer driven narrative masks a magnitude of problems.

To be as cost effective as possible, Fast Fashion brands often use poor quality materials which don’t stand the test of time. It’s estimated that 60% of fabric fibres are now made from synthetic materials, which are derived from fossil fuels.

Why is this a problem?

Whenever we eventually throw away our clothes, they end up in landfill, and synthetic fibres collect in the sea. As these materials do not decay, they contribute to the emission of methane, a potent heat-trapping gas which speeds up the process of global warming.

During 2020, the BOOHOO group have reported major growth in sales, promoting self-care products, weekday loungewear outfits and dressy attire for weekend ‘Zoom’ pub quizzes. However, many consumers have boycotted the brand after employees from a Leicester Boohoo factory, were made continue work despite a localised lockdown. With no social distance measures in place, some were being paid less than £3.50 an hour and made work after testing positive to Covid19.

Online shop Pretty Little Thing were also criticised for their 99% off Black Friday sale. Twitter users were quick to question the ethical practice of the brand, where clothing items were selling for as little as 8p per item. During lockdown, consumers have gained an increased awareness of the disparity within the industry of Fast Fashion, however without government regulation, it will continue to prosper.

Virtual Flea Markets 

One antidote to Fast Fashion, has been the increase in re-sale culture. With 2020 seeing the closure of retail, virtual flea markets such as Depop and Vinted have flourished.

Depop, the online platform that promotes the mantra “Build an empire from your bedroom”, has been catering to the fashion conscious consumer of the pandemic. It allows users to sell, buy and swap their unused clothing and accessories online. In 2020, the platform has boomed from 8 to 12 million users, with items such as tie-dye sweatshirts, loungewear and workout gear becoming wildly popular.

A 2020 survey conducted by online resell company ‘Thredup’, reported an increase in thrifting, with many consumers clearing out their closets while stuck in lockdown. People were finding thrifting both affordable and entertaining. Additionally, sustainability and entrepreneurship are key motivators in using online selling platforms, allowing consumers to achieve an eco-friendly side hustle, acting as a supplementary income during these financially dubious times.

Many fashion brands are becoming increasingly aware of the threat of resell culture, with several taking steps to promote fashion sustainability. Advocated by celebs such a Hailey Bieber, the new “Levis Secondhand” website sells recycled Levis jeans and jackets. The company is holding itself accountable for its role in the Climate Crisis, claiming their clothing only improves with wear. They state that “If everybody bought one used item this year, instead of buying new, it would save 449 million pounds of waste”.

Other companies are promoting the individuality of buying second hand, appealing to a younger generation who seek to stand out, with one off vintage pieces. The Urban Renewal collection by Urban Outfitters was one of the first to promote thrifting, trading in vintage streetwear from as late as the 70s. With the belief that each piece of clothing should have a little bit of history, they discover, curate and repurpose old clothes.

“Thanks, I Rented it!”

‘Throw-away’ fashion has become a lifestyle for many consumers. With many buying entire wardrobes for post lockdown summer holidays, vast amounts of clothes are worn once and then forgotten. The new Fashion Rental movement is one which seeks to dispel this attitude, speaking to the current sharing economy, where we rent Airbnb’s, and share Spotify playlists.

The metamorphosis of Fashion Rental started in the US, pioneered by companies such as “Rent the Runway” and is now starting to develop in the UK. The service, which was once associated with formalwear, has now shifted to daywear and causals. The concept allows brands to come together on one platform, to rent out designer pieces. Consumers can now follow fashion trends without a vast monetary commitment, and in return enjoy high quality clothing made from a sustainable source.

Since the pandemic, consumers have a heightened awareness of their disposable income, as well as the amount of storage space taken up by masses of clothes. The sustainability of clothing rental is also a major factor contributing to its growing success, with many companies sourcing reusable packaging and making use of steam cleaning as opposed to dry cleaning.

Continual growth is expected within this market as people rent more and buy less, and it will be interesting to see how companies adapt to a new form of consumption. While it may pose as a new opportunity for high end brands to collaborate with rental platforms, cheaper brands may not reap the same benefits.

Fast Fashion Forward

In a fast forwarded reality, the future of fast fashion will only change with the help of industry giants, government regulation and consumer choice. Brands must work towards more sustainable practices, whether it be through up-cycling clothes or reusing materials. They must reevaluate their production processes and consider creating higher quality, longer lasting products which hold more potential in a Fashion Rental market. The possible introduction of Government tax within the Fast fashion industry will also help encourage sustainability.

With consumers becoming more aware of ethical contribution to the planet, we must continue to hold brands accountable. We must re-evaluate our spending habits and actively choose which businesses to support. It may take time to spread the word, but if the last two years have taught us anything in terms of working together, we as a collective community have the power to create change. I think we can all agree that underpaid workers and killing ecosystems isn’t so stylish.