Upcycling Is The New Trend For Sustainable Fashion In Latin America

Bets on sustainable fashion, based on the affective, even on a hedonistic initiative that consists of "transforming waste into desires"
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upcycling in latin america

Let's open a debate towards sustainability around the world; What ideas go global?

We live in an era of many dualities and contradictions. On the one hand, conspicuous consumption is derived from capitalism, and on the other the "millennial" generation promoting a new lifestyle, or a critical theory towards consumption.

That is why luxury designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier used upcycling, in January of this year when he presented his latest collection at the helm of the firm made with materials from previous collections. Vivianne Westwood also worked in that sense on different occasions and was the designer Martin Margiela who made this technique a leitmotif of his career.

Furthermore, the case of Gucci, which started working with a new type of recyclable nylon that can be regenerated countless times. But always, with the head in command, of those who already have a place in the world of design; or better, of those who control it.

So how can we raise a truly sustainable revolution? Where does the social rule in the "sustainable" concept? And Latin America?

There is de convergence of my point, on corrupting the vertical gaze that capitalism itself proposes, owner of fast fashion. Contemplating countries with a high load of artisanal labor, but this time, with an eye on the admiration and appreciation of the work.

Giving a voice to alternative designers, like Jesica Trosman and Martin Churba; those who aim a radical and comprehensive change. Taking sustainability as a real possibility and not just for "some". As a matter of fact, the collection plot starts from industrial workwear, this gives a realistic and conceptual imprint on the phenomenon.

"We are keeping an eye on the workshops that are dying, they are people who know how to do that and nothing else, we should help them so that these family businesses are productive, cooperative places, and that little by little they recover" - Churba

Moreover, believing that in some way, it is to give true place in society to those who are forward to our clothes. It reminds me of the resignification proposed by the avant-garde of Dadaist art. Where the mission was to give a new value to an object recognized by all, with a cry of revolution in between.

This concept is manifested, not only, in the aesthetics elaborated by the designers, from the color palette to the implemented morphologies, but also, in the internal and external social burden, where the awareness of the origin of clothing prevails, impacting directly on our choice of consumption and in turn on the quality of life of many.

Improving the quality of life of those who produce our "protective skin" is synonymous with an honest society. It is a political and redundant conflict. But controlling consumption sounds capricious, and we forget, in part, the reciprocal relationship it has with the previous link, opening doors to the social factor in the sustainable framework, and on the other part, the environmental impact.

Environment and fashion, what is the solution? Although reusing has an end, it invites us to belong to an aspect called "circular economy"; which is a very extensive phenomenon, but emphasize promoting a closer link between user and designer, where the consumer, through the growth of social networks, is aware of the processes involved in their future purchase (clothing).

We can easily see this in the images of Jaramillo, where closeness and conscience reign. It creates a family atmosphere, it sounds achievable, it destroys certain verticalities, they humanize design, removing it from the pedestal of "established artists", their corporality crosses us, transmits ideology, plasticity.

It is a great deal to combine social, economic, political, and environmental aspects in a collection, or in a brand. Jaramillo redoubled the bet, and did "a lot with little", integrating perfectly all the items.

There is only one objection, or question about it, in economic terms, it continues to be an "elite" brand, which in turn incorporates a new language, being inclusive with many people. But couldn't it be taken as an offense? Is it one of the many failed attempts to reconcile horizontality?

I continue opening the debate.

In my opinion, and to conclude, I argue that capsules like these are an advance towards something better, or a more honest society, taking up some concepts raised by the sociologist and architect William Morris. They are not pristine and they are still renowned designers from Argentina, I would like to have the opportunity to show you more about our local and national design.

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